From dumplings with mushrooms to a modern version of kogel mogel and white asparagus ice cream, the Chief Inspector of the prestigious Michelin Guide, who cannot disclose his identity, shares his advice on what to try in Lithuania’s newly Michelin-starred restaurants.
In a ceremony in Vilnius on Thursday, it was announced that the Michelin Stars – the hallmark of culinary excellence – were awarded to four restaurants in Vilnius – Džiaugsmas, Demo, Pas Mus, and Nineteen18. In total, 34 Lithuanian restaurants were included in the Michelin Guide.
Further reading
Elisabeth Boucher-Anselin, Michelin’s Director of Communications, also joined the interview with LRT.lt.
Four Lithuanian restaurants have been awarded Michelin Stars. Is this a big number for a country of this size?
Boucher-Anselin: We don’t have quotas. It’s not about the size of the country or the size of the city, it’s about talent. You can be a big country or a very small country, but the question is whether there are talented personalities who make us fall into dreams when we sit at their table.
Here in Lithuania, 34 restaurants have been judged to be of really high quality. They meet our criteria. Four of them have been deemed worthy of a star. It was not difficult for our team of inspectors to decide on this. After several visits to these places, they all agreed that the restaurants deserve a star.
Can you name the single best restaurant in Lithuania?
Boucher-Anselin: I cannot, we don’t rate that way. A star means that you are among the best. A star in Vilnius, Paris, or Tokyo means the same. These restaurants are on the same very high level and meet our criteria.
What does the future hold for these restaurants?
Boucher-Anselin: We evaluate the restaurants every year. Our team of inspectors is constantly on the lookout for new gems. They also go back to the restaurants that were assessed in the first year. So, this year’s star-rated restaurants will be visited again.
If we see their standard rising, they can expect to receive more stars. However, we do not want to give out advice; chefs should work the way they want to work, the way they want to welcome their guests. There are no rules. You may get a star one year or lose it the next.
One can lose a star?
Boucher-Anselin: Yes. The same principle applies. If the inspectors come back and see that the quality has dropped, they can decide not to award a star.
Does the popularity of the restaurants increase after they receive Michelin stars?
Boucher-Anselin: Yes, definitely. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, local food lovers are tempted to return to familiar restaurants [after they get a star] or to visit those they haven’t tried before. The guide also helps international travellers discover the best places to eat.
Do you notice any price increases in restaurants rated by the Michelin Guide?
Boucher-Anselin: Not necessarily. For us, the most important thing is the quality of the food and the fact that the chef respects his guests. They decide on the prices themselves. Maybe they don’t raise it because it’s a way to please their visitors.
What expectations did you have when you came to Lithuania?
Boucher-Anselin: I have to say that the team of inspectors is very open to all new places and experiences. They just try to open the door and experience what is waiting inside.
Chief Inspector: First of all, I want to say that we are proud of the choice we have made in Lithuania. There is a lot of diversity and among the 34 restaurants selected, we have 12 different types of cuisine. We see a unique Lithuanian identity. To get four Michelin-starred restaurants is an extraordinary achievement.
All the inspectors who have visited Lithuania are professionals and work exclusively for Michelin. We have travelled all over the world and can confirm that a star in Lithuania is the same as a star in Thailand, New York, or London. The level is the same no matter where we are in the world.
In Lithuania, we liked the respect for the culinary heritage – the modern style of most of the restaurants, without sacrificing history. The chefs in Lithuania are doing amazing things.
Are you planning to return to Lithuania?
Boucher-Anselin: Yes, of course. Our aim is to visit restaurants in different seasons. One of our criteria is consistency. We go back regularly and then we decide whether to rate the restaurants.
Michelin came to Lithuania at the invitation of the Economy and Innovation Ministry. How long are you planning to continue your visits?
Boucher-Anselin: The decision to visit a new country is primarily up to the Michelin Guide and depends entirely on the local food supply. You can be a powerful government and have a lot of money, but if the gastronomic offer is not ready to accept Michelin, then we will not come.
We visited Lithuania because in recent years it has shown a real talent for good food and service.
Are you going to visit Lithuanian restaurants even if the ministry doesn’t buy Michelin services anymore?
Boucher-Anselin: Yes, absolutely. We don’t do “one-shot” jobs. We are investing in new geographical locations, so it would not make sense to come for just one or two years. We hope that the chefs that we are evaluating today will continue to improve, their teams will grow, they will open their own restaurants, etc.
Could the inspector name a few dishes that impressed him most in Lithuania?
Chief Inspector: I can give you a few examples from each Michelin-starred restaurant.
At Džiaugsmas, we particularly liked the plum ice cream with white chocolate mousse. The inspector who came back from there said it was very tasty and perfectly balanced.
At Nineteen18, we had wonderful dumplings with mushrooms. We sat at the table and just admired the chef, who made us feel like we were his friends.
The restaurant Pas Mus has a special personality. All the inspectors were impressed by the specially sourced ingredients from the garden of the chef’s mother and the pickled vegetables from the previous season. The white asparagus ice cream with caviar was also a hit, and their beef tartare made the inspectors go wild.
Finally, Demo – the chef of this restaurant has a special talent. He is very young and creates very inventive dishes. His thinking is completely different. We really liked the simplicity of his lamb. Also, his modern version of kogel mogel.
Newsletter
Every Friday morning.
